Southern Utah & Grand Canyon North Rim - Part II (Sep 30 - Oct 2, 2020)

Continued from Part I of this trip... 

Based out of the Holiday Inn Express in Kanab, we planned to finally see the North Rim of the Grand Canyon together over several days, including some of the remote overlooks accessible only by high-clearance 4x4 vehicles. 

We visited the South Rim of the Grand Canyon in March 2009 (before we were blogging), and had always wanted to visit the North Rim. 

We read somewhere that only 10% of Grand Canyon National Park's 6 million visitors make it to the North Rim. We found that this was reduced even further because of the pandemic -- a worker in the North Rim Visitor Center told us current visitation was about 25% of "normal."


Grand Canyon North Rim area; map courtesy of npmaps.com
(click map to enlarge)


On our first day we visited the main area the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park which was more than an hour and a half drive south of Kanab in Arizona. The aspens were at their peak of fall color all along the Kaibab Plateau, sometimes strikingly interspersed with burned areas.

Once inside the National Park, we headed west on the paved road to Point Imperial, one of the higher viewpoints, followed by Cape Royal. The clear blue skies were so welcome after all the smoke-filled skies back home. The views down into the canyon were an incredible sight!

Click on any image to see a larger version

View from Imperial Point

View from Imperial Point


View of Angels Window, near Cape Royal


View from Cape Royal


Another view from the spectacular Cape Royal viewpoint


We then drove to the North Rim Visitor Center for a late lunch at the only place open (The Saloon) during the pandemic, then checked out the nearby viewpoints ending with a gorgeous sunset at Bright Angel Point. By luck, the moon was rising just as the sun went down.


Grand Canyon Lodge at the North Rim Visitors Center


View from Bright Angel Point


View from Bright Angel Point


Obligatory selfie at Bright Angel Point




Moonrise

Last light at Bright Angel Point

We got back to Kanab after 9pm, having driven over 200 miles to the North Rim area and back. 

Thursday morning we were ready for a break from all the driving and found a couple of short hikes not too far from Kanab. 

First was the Toadstool Hoodoos, a bit east of Kanab. This easy and popular hike was really fun. As a backdrop to the hoodoos was a wall of light sandstone that reminded us of Nevada’s Cathedral Gorge. The Toadstools were in a large open area you could wander around on. 

Hiking up to the Toadstools






Plenty of room to wander around the interesting rock formations


Fortunately our next hike was even shorter because the mid-day heat was becoming a bit much. We hiked half a mile through a wash off of a dirt road to reach The Nautilus, one of the more unusual rock formations we’ve seen in Utah.


Looking into "The Nautilus"





Susan standing inside the Nautilus


The wash we hiked in on to see the Nautilus




Mike taking a break in the Nautilus before hiking out


Friday morning it was off to the North Rim again, this time to see it from the Toroweap Overlook in the Tuweep section. To get there we drove through a remote part of the Grand Canyon Parashant National Monument. The unpaved road portion of about 60 miles each way was a relatively easy drive, but became more difficult, requiring high-clearance and 4x4 as we approached the last 2-3 miles to the edge of the canyon.




The "road" to Toroweap

Arriving at 9:30AM, incredibly, we had Toroweap to ourselves all morning! There is a lot of red rock to explore around this beautiful area of the rim and we appreciated the solitude as we took it all in.
 

Our first view from the Toroweap viewpoint, looking mostly southwest


View to the southeast from the canyon rim; it's 3,000' down to the Colorado River


Thousands of feet below we could see several rafts on the river (bottom center)

We enjoyed nearly 2 miles of hiking along the rim on the Saddle Horse Loop Trail


As we were preparing to head back, a group of side-by-sides and another group on horseback were arriving. We stopped at the remote ranger station in Tuweep on our way out and visited with the ranger. While we were talking with her, a census taker driving a sedan showed up to count the single person, a full-time NPS ranger who lives there. After taking the census info, he asked her for help in fixing a flat he had driving over 60 miles on a rough dirt road. 


Stopping at the very remote Tuweep Ranger Station, 16 miles from the Toroweap overlook


There couldn't be more than half a dozen people in this metropolitan area...  :-)


The census taker getting info from the Tuweep seasonal volunteer ranger

After the long bumpy ride back to Kanab, we walked from our hotel to a BBQ food truck for dinner, followed by ice cream cones and called it a day.

Southern Utah & Slot Canyons (Sep 28 - 29, 2020)

This was our first big trip since the pandemic started, and we were excited to be visiting old and new places in the southwest again. We took our 4Runner "Moby" on the trip, because of several 4x4 off road drives we planned to do. 

Moby, our 2017 4Runner


We started our trip on Mike's birthday, and we soon found ourselves in the recently burned Glenwood Canyon, east of Glenwood Springs, Colorado. It was sad to see the impact of Grizzly Creek fire, which had closed this stretch of I-70 for more than two weeks. 


The burned landscape in Glenwood Canyon


Our drive included the beautifully scenic areas between Torrey and Boulder, Utah, on Highway 12. We even managed to catch some fall color from the stands of aspen along the way. 


Views from the Larb Hollow Overlook




We also took a scenic off-road detour through the Box Death Hollow Wilderness, southwest of Boulder, Utah, emerging just north of Escalante. 


Susan taking in a viewpoint in Box Death Hollow Wilderness




We stayed at the very nice Canyon Country Lodge in Escalante, which we'd stayed at once before when it had just recently opened. Because of the pandemic, we got takeout from the grill at the hotel, and ate in our room. 

Early the next morning took the hour long drive on the very rough Hole-in-the-Rock Road to the Lower Dry Fork trailhead, our starting point for Peek-a-Boo and Spooky slot canyons. These slot canyons are in the Scorpion Wilderness Study area, part of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. 


A smoother section of the teeth-rattling Hole-in-the-Rock Road


At the Lower Dry Fork trailhead


After signing the register at the trailhead at about 9:15am, our hike to Peek-a-Boo began on a rim trail, with nice views down to a wash where the slot canyon began, though we didn't spot the entrance until we were hiking back out. 


Susan, along the rim portion of the trail to Peek-a-Boo slot canyon


View of the wash below, with entrance to Peek-a-Boo at left and Spooky to the right


After dropping down a few hundred feet from the rim, Susan enjoys the shade of a red rock fin


Just before the entrance to Peek-a-Boo, we saw another interesting slot canyon, the Dry Fork Narrows, off to the left, so we explored a little ways in. This canyon was the other trail to access the slot canyons from the Upper Dry Fork trailhead and would also have made an interesting hike. 

Entrance to Dry Fork Narrows slot canyon


Mike in Dry Fork Narrows, just before turning back to go to Peek-a-Boo


Just a short distance later we knew we had arrived at Peek-a-Boo, as a group of people were waiting their turn to ascend the tricky entrance. But no complaints about crowds this time as Susan appreciated getting a hand from another hiker. It turned out that a hiking club from Grand Junction, Colorado, was the group of around 20 people ahead of us. Their group leader had experience with this hike, which turned out to be very helpful. 

The human traffic jam where the trail ascends up into Peek-a-Boo slot canyon



Inside the slot, there were friendly faces and helping hands when needed


Although we had our "big camera" (the DSLR) with us, the interior of the slot canyon was too crowded and too narrow to use it, plus we needed our hands to negotiate, so it went into the pack, and our iPhones became our main cameras. 

The last picture with the "big camera" before going deep into Peek-a-boo








Coming back up out of Peek-a-boo slot canyon


We emerged from Peek-a-boo about 10:45am and hiked a short distance around to the entrance of Spooky, the narrowest slot canyon we have ever hiked. 

Hiking in the open area between the two slot canyons


There were several slightly technical sections of Spooky, and it was helpful to have other hikers to advise on the best way through, though we're sure we could've done it on our own. 


Dropping down into Spooky


Narrow section of Spooky


A dead bat was on a shelf on the canyon wall




Susan dropping down on a rope left in the canyon



We haven't heard why the Spooky slot canyon was named Spooky, but it could've been because of several very narrow sections that would be a problem for a large person or someone who was claustrophobic. Mike isn't claustrophobic at all, but at one very narrow section, he had to remove his back, turn sideways, and even then the rock walls were so narrow that he had to exhale completely to allow his upper chest to squeeze through (though he could've got down on all fours to crawl on the wider floor of the canyon). 

The hiker behind Mike; the floor of the canyon here was barely the width of his boot


Several sections were so narrow that our packs barely fit though


It was cool to see a sunbeam filtering through the dust


Mike about to get "beamed up" :-) 

Soon the canyon walls began to widen


And suddenly we were out in the bright sun again :-) 


The hike out was quite a bit warmer than when we started, and we were happy to find some shade hiking back along the rock fins. For us, 75F seems hot on a hike :-) 




One thing we learned is that the best practice for this hike was to go "one way" through Peek-a-boo and Spooky clockwise so as to avoid parties and hikers coming from opposite directions in the many narrow sections. Fortunately, we had already decided to go clockwise, but we ran into people turning around to do it "correctly," and on the way out of Spooky, advised another hiker from the Netherlands who was just starting. 


Entrance of Peek-a-boo viewed from the trail rim;
if you zoom in you might be able to see a person climbing up


After the hike, we drove back out Hole-in-the-Rock Road to Escalante. From there, we took the very scenic route over Highway 12 past the Powell Point overlook. 


Powell Point


Then we drove over to Cannonville to drive down Cottonwood Canyon Road to Highway 89. We had driven Cotton Canyon previously, but from the other direction. This is a very scenic road going through some interesting geologic formations. You don't need a 4x4 or high clearance vehicle for this, but it would be impassable when wet (even with a high-clearance 4x4 vehicle). 





Almost out of Cottonwood Canyon


Once back on Highway 89 we went west to Kanab, our basecamp for the next part of our trip -- exploring the North Rim area of the Grand Canyon. 

The next time we’re around Escalante, hiking to Calf Creek Falls and along the Escalante River to Escalante Natural Arch and Skyline Arch (and the ruins/rock art site) will be on our list. It would also be fun to drive to the end of Hole-in-the-Rock Road. 

 Click here to read Part II of this trip...