Moorea, French Polynesia - Part I (Nov 4-18)



Fall wasn't much fun in Estes Park this year, and we fully expected our previously arranged home exchange to French Polynesia would be cancelled because of the flooding.

But when our home exchangers heard of our situation they insisted that we stay at their house as planned, and they would come to Estes Park at a later date. Our journey to Moorea began November 4 by traveling to DIA via Highway 36, just three hours after it reopened from flood damage.


Location of French Polynesia, about 5,000 miles from Colorado

Moorea (upper left) and island of Tahiti

Distracted by flood news, we hadn't spent much time researching the place that we would call home for the next two weeks. The first detail we might have paid more attention to is check in time for our flight beginning 3 hours before flight time, and ending one hour before. Our plane landed in LA just 2 hours before our Air Tahiti Nui flight, so we enjoyed a brisk walk to the international terminal with our bags.

The flight was as good as a long overnight flight can be. Even in economy class, each seat had a monitor with games, movies, music and movies. We were fed a light dinner and breakfast, and appreciated the little bag of goodies which included an eye mask and ear plugs. Not a big surprise, many of our fellow passengers were young newlyweds. We were each given our first Tiare blossom, the fragrant white flower that is symbolic of Tahiti.


Each seat had its own TV and USB connection

We deplaned just as the sun peeked out above the Faaa Airport on Tahiti. The line for non-EU passengers was long, but we had no trouble grabbing a cab to the ferry terminal in time for the 7:30AM boat to Moorea.

Getting off the plane in Papeete

The Aremiti ferry ready to take us to Moorea

At this point we were pushing 20 hours of travel and didn't think to have binoculars handy to try to identify the birds we saw on the 12 mile crossing. There were many shearwaters of some sort and gannet-like birds that we figured out later must have been Red-footed boobies. We were also preoccupied trying to contact our neighbor who would pick us up at the ferry terminal in Moorea. Our phones didn't work as expected, so some very helpful crew members made the call for us and helped us connect with Alain at the dock.


Arriving at the ferry terminal on Moorea

Moorea was beautiful in the early morning light, as we came through the pass between coral reefs entering unbelievably blue waters. It was a short ride to our new home and it was good that we had a driver, as our road was barely noticeable off the main road that encircles the island.


The "wow" view from our home on Moorea

Our house was just perfect. The large open great room had fantastic views of the ocean from the front with natural vegetation surrounding us in the back.


Mike checks out our home's "owner's manual" :-)

The setting was very private with only one neighbor visible. We spent the next couple of hours sitting on the veranda, looking out and saying "Wow!"

The house and private pool

Susan relaxes on the veranda

We also enjoyed meeting and spending time with our two home exchange pets, the friendly cocker spaniel Doudousse, and the cat, Ylang, both outdoor pets.


Doudousse

Ylang

After settling in and napping, we ventured out late in the afternoon to pick up some groceries at Champion, the largest store on the island.


Panoramic viewpoint on the way to the "supermarche". The island of Tahiti is 12 miles away.

A nearby public park and beach

There are very few roads on Moorea besides the main 36 mile road that goes around the island. Points of interest are noted using the PK (Polynesian Kilometer) system. Starting near the ferry terminal is PK0. Then the PK numbers increment going in both directions until meeting roughly on the other side of the island. This means there are two of each PK number, one going clockwise, and the other going counterclockwise.


Along the island road. Note the guy on bike with a palm frond.

Signs all over the island, including PK signs, were small and easily missed. Mike became proficient at turning around the car on narrow roads, while avoiding other vehicles, scooters, bicyclists, pedestrians and chickens.


PK 33, near Haapiti

The short road to our home "paved" with volcanic rock

We never tired of the changing view from the veranda

A cruise ship heads for Tahiti

Motu Ahi island just off Moorea, with Tahiti in the background

Our exchangers were very thoughtful and left their guidebook for local birds, and we started noticing new birds right away. Although there is not a large number of different species on Moorea, they were almost all new to us except a handful we had seen in New Zealand. As always, birdwatching dovetails (pun intended) nicely with all our explorations of Moorea. Although we saw many of these birds from our home, some of our most productive birdwatching was done at the wastewater treatment ponds near Opunohu Bay. Here are some of the unique birds we added to our "life list".


Common Myna

Red-vented Bulbul

Red-browed Firetail
Chestnut-breasted Mannikin

Fairy Tern

White-tailed Tropicbird

Grey-green Fruit Dove

Pacific Reef Heron

Brown Noddy
White-footed Booby

We enjoyed being on this small, easily navigated island with plenty of time to see all the sights and attractions. We had planned to do some hiking, but we didn't do very much as we were pretty unprepared for the heat and humidity, and in some cases, bugs and mosquitoes.

Bougainvillea just growing along the side of the road

It was interesting to live on Moorea as a "local" and as some locals told us, there isn't a lot to do on the island. We enjoyed some good restaurants (almost always with views of the ocean) and snack shacks, and also enjoyed the restaurants and environs of most of the major vacation resorts on the island. We ended up driving completely around the island three separate times!

We very much liked being near the ocean all the time, and it was fun to see how the locals (and tourists) enjoyed the full range of beach and water activities.


Locals with a young Brown Noddy they had rescued
Kite-surfing was very big on Moorea
A kite-surfer gets big air



View of our neighbor's house on a moonlit night

Continued in Part II...

Colorado Fall Color 2013 Part III: Crested Butte (Oct 1-15)

On this, our third trip to Crested Butte, the area began to feel a bit like home away from home.

The fall color view of Mt Whetstone from our condo on October 2nd, just south of Crested Butte
[Click on any image to enlarge it.]

We returned to many of our favorite haunts and hikes, and tried a few new ones. Pizza at the Secret Stash is as good as always at their new location, but just to be sure, we ate there twice. The Crested Butte Film Festival was just over but we caught Dear Governor Cuomo during the After Fest at the Center for the Arts, Crested Butte. We shopped in "Gunny" and saw Gravity in 3D at the Ruby Cinema on the Western State Colorado University campus. We even have a dentist in town now.

We watched fall color come and go, and the mountain peaks were white with snow before we headed home. Here are a some pictures from some of our favorite places while we were on "CB time".

Mount Beckwith along Kebler Pass

Kebler Pass

In addition to the drive across this aspen loaded area as we arrived at CB, we did the Horse Ranch Park Loop hike. This was an excellent extension (5 miles total) to the HRP viewpoint hike we did in 2011.


Aspen grove along the road in Kebler Pass
Aspen color from viewpoint at Cliff Creek trailhead on Kebler Pass road
Late day light along Kebler Pass

Mt Beckwith from the Horse Ranch Park trail

Horse Ranch Park viewpoint





Susan along the trail




Ohio Pass

We had a very pleasant morning photo excursion at some great roadside viewpoints of aspens and the Castles.

iPhone panorama of the Ohio Pass viewpoint

A favorite view from the talus slope along Ohio Pass road

The "Castles" from Ohio Pass road



Our fun watching for pikas on the opposite hillside ended with Petey Pika meeting a real pika. He keeps asking to watch Pinocchio now.


Probably the closest a pika has ever approached us; he seemed curious



Petey Pika makes a new friend  :-)

Working our way through a cattle drive, we drove further down Ohio pass Road and hiked to Mill Creek. A huge bang for the buck in just 2.5 easy miles round trip. I look forward to birding here during spring migration.


Ohio Pass traffic jam


At the Mill-Castle trailhead

Very interesting rock formations similar to "the Castles"

Along the trail

Panoramic view of the Mill-Castle hike (click image to enlarge)

Washington Gulch

Mike did a hike called No Name Hike, or hike number 31 in our hiking guide, and came back beaming and anxious to share it with me. Steep but only 1 mile round trip, he had 360 degree views. 


Crested Butte, viewed from the No Name "summit"

Panorama from the No Name summit

Another view from the summit







On another day, we tried to go up together but were turned around by snow .4 of a mile before the trailhead at almost 11,000 feet. Still, it was a beautiful drive.


The road going up to Washington Gulch

Crested Butte Mountain

Some private trails in the community where we stayed offer convenient hiking through mostly Aspen forests and around Lake Grant. 


Lake Grant

Common Mergansers flying in to Lake Grant
Eared Grebes
Aspen reflections on Lake Grant

These trails connect with popular local hiking and mountain biking trails at the base of CB mountain, leading into town via Tony's Trail, or up to Mount Crested Butte via the Upper Trail, or further west via the Upper Upper Trail or Whetstone Trail. These lower elevation hikes are good for spring or late fall hiking, and we especially enjoyed the carpet of yellow leaves. I think we're going to want bicycles on our next visit.


Along the trail near Mt Crested Butte

We hiked up to Mount Crested Butte, then down on the paved bike trail which ended at a wetlands area, continuing together as far as Rainbow Park, a nicely maintained city park, for a total of about 6 miles. While not wilderness hiking, these walks are very pretty and provide interesting perspectives looking down at CB and surrounds.

Mountain bikers on the way down the trail to CB


Along the trail to Grant Lake



I headed west into town to window shop while Mike walked an additional 3 miles back home. He drove back into town a bit later and made a new friend at Townie Bookstore while waiting for me.